In June of 2021, we bought a 100W solar panel. In August, we got a trailer to go with it. Renogy had a sale, and we grabbed the panel/controller while we could. I finally got around to installing it in the summer of 22.
It’s often easier and cheaper to find no hookup camping spots, and they’re likely better spots if you’re into the wilderness. While we found we can make our regular old lead acid battery last a single overnight, we’ve always carried a backup power source for peace of mind. On the first trips, it was a 1000W Honda generator left over from our boating days, but fortunately, we never had to start it because who wants to listen to that?
I had ordered the factory solar port. Most folks either go with a solar suitcase — a weatherproof combined solar panel and controller — or rooftop panels and an interior controller. (Steve Lineberry’s solar video.)
The access to the incoming wire is from the forward part of the port bench seat. The first step was to cut the wires coming in as close to the main harness as possible and tape off the ends to avoid shorts. I then crimped and heat-shrank the butt connectors on. I learned most of what I know about RV wiring from Marine Compass How-To.
I set the controller outside the compartment to make it easier to connect the leads. The wires that come with the Renogy kit are all black, so I marked the ends of the positive from the solar panel and to the battery with red tape to keep track of which was which. I used the circuit breaker mounted on the battery box to attach the battery positive. I crimped a ring connector on and bolted it on top of the battery connector. The best negative I could find was the two-hole bus bar inside the converter. I unplugged the trailer before removing the converter cover as removing it exposed hazardous 120 V conductors.
The red light next to the button on the controller indicates it is set for wet lead acid charging profile.
To keep a clean look inside the trailer, I avoid holes when I can. I used industrial strength velcro. I cleaned both surfaces with rubbing alcohol then attached hook tape to one side and fabric to the other. After 24 hours I just pushed the controller onto the wall.
Having the panel not attached to the trailer allows me to move it around and tilt it as the sun crosses the sky. The in use photos are at a shady campsite in Mathews Arm, Shenandoah National Park. Although the battery drops to 12.5 or so by morning, the panel has been sufficient to recharge it the next day so far.
We don’t have an inverter so our loads are the usual light DC loads: refrigerator control, lighting, overhead fan, propane heater.
It seems the solar port wires go directly to the 10 gauge positive and negative wires that lead to the battery. Is there a reason you did not attach the battery side of the contoller to those wires as opposed to going all the way back to the battery and to the bus bar on the converter?
It’s a tight space where the leads come in. I wanted as much wire as available connected to the solar port to make the butt connections easier to make and to have room to cut one off in case it failed. The lead wires I used to connect the controller to the battery came were included with the kit, so there was no additional cost to use them.